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Feather Board Super Kit - Pack of 4 with Double Stack Fittings

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Feather Board Super Kit - Pack of 4 with Double Stack Fittings

Rutlands    Part No. DK6685

• Dual slide motion allows you to quickly achieve the best angle for an accurate set-up
• Pre-load tension design reduces dangerous kickback
• Split rail mitre bars ensure maximum hold in the channels
• Unique knob design prevents over-tightening
• Kit consists of 4 x feather boards, 2 x spacers and all required mounting hardware


This Super Kit consists of 4 x feather boards, 2 x spacer blocks and all the mounting hardware needed to either create four individual feather boards or two double stacked feather boards for use with tall stock cutting operations. When used as individual feather boards the face height/thickness is 20mm and when used as a double feather board with the spacer block the face height/thickness is 75mm. Each feather board has Dual Slide Motion which allows you to quickly achieve the best angle for accurate setup on your workpiece whilst the unique pre-load tension design reduces dangerous kickback.

Ergonomically designed knobs help prevent over tightening and provide non slip loosening, a unique feature to these feather boards. The kit comes with eight all steel mitre bars, four for 3/4" channels and four for 5/8" channels; so you will always have the right size for the job. The mitre bars have a split rail construction to ensure maximum hold in the channels.

These feather boards are the best and simplest we have ever used and will prove invaluable on any router table, table saw, or band saw. Highly recommended.
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29.85 inc vat GBP
5.000 2 5
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  • Brand Rutlands
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  • Rating: review score 5
    Written By: Phil Thornley
    I agree with all the good things Mark Chisholm says. I bought the full kit with the Xact Pro Router Table with Lift, Motor, Switch & Feather Board Kit. Starting at the bottom: the table does not have wheels as shown on the illustration but does have perfectly good adjustable height feet which screw into the threaded holes in the bottom of the legs. One of them screwed in at a slant of around 5° but that doesn't really show once they are screwed in. The legs are heavy and sturdy. The eight crossbars are thin and not very neatly finished in their matt black paint. Looks like they've been stacked together before the paint was properly dry. However, they do the job perfectly and are quite strong enough. Watch out though because two of the longer side rails have pre-drilled holes for the tabletop which can easily be missed. The tabletop is a very soft (albeit thick) fibreboard although this is only really visible if you look at the rebate where the lifter sits, which of course isn't visible in operation. The "phenolic" might lead you to think that this is some sort of smooth hard all-encasing plastic resin, but it's more like a cheap kitchen worktop finish. Would I buy the router table again? Absolutely! It's way cheaper than others and I'm sure will do a perfect job. Saving that much money, I'm quite happy with the minor issues. The router and lifter assembly is a beaut. Looks really nicely machined and all fits together perfectly. The instructions say to use the Allen key to tighten the clamp to hold the router into the lifter but don't mention that you also need to find yourself an open-ended spanner to tighten up the two locking nuts. A couple of Allen keys are provided, but neither of the two provided sizes is suitable for the little bracket mounted bearing which screws onto the upper end rail of the router table to hold the shank of the winder mechanism. The pack contains something called a start pin but there was no explanation of what that is. Apparently it's if you are not using a fence but I only found that out on an internet search because someone else had had the same mystery. The router motor comes with both a half inch and a quarter inch collet which I hadn't noticed on the specifications, which is really nice as it means you can use your old quarter inch cutters. The Rutlands web page advertises that the router has a "massive 2400W motor". In fact the manufacturer's user manual says the motor has a power of 1800W. I don't understand why Rutlands claim a higher power rating than the manufacturer. Maybe there's a difference between the no-load and operating power consumption but I'm no electrician. Would I buy the router and lift again? Of course! Feather Board Super Kit - Pack of 4 with Double Stack Fittings: these have very nicely high quality manufactured plastic components but the metal runners are a disappointment. They are too loose for the channels although I haven't measured whether the problem is with the channel or the runner. The countersink shaped bolts which are threaded upwards through the runners are supposed to force the two sides of the runner apart to clamp against the insides of the channel, but they are too loose. They work much better now I've glued a thin strip of plastic down the length of the runner. It's also difficult to understand why the plastic doesn't simply have two parallel plastic slots for the adjustment. It's quite difficult to move the feather boards inwards and outwards as one of the vertical bolts has to move sideways at the same time and is reluctant to do so. Would I buy them again? Well I would probably research the market a bit more to see if there was anything better, but once they are set up and in place they do give a real feeling of confidence that the wood is held very securely which I suppose is what matters most. Playing with all this new kit was a great way to spend New Year's Day and I'd recommend it to anyone.
  • Rating: review score 5
    Written By: Nic Murray
    I've been looking about for some decent feather boards (my plywood boards always look rather "scratty") so when these arrived at less than half price I took the plunge. They maybe plastic but the feathers are good quality and look as if they will last for many years. The fixing plates must cover the whole range of slots. The instruction sheet is as usual these days rather vague. To date I've used them on my table saw and with a bit of fudging on my Woodrat. The first feather is set back from the rest by about 2mm and it is suggested that this should give the desired pressure. I found them to be far too stiff and used just 1mm of spring with very good results. It maybe that the feathers need breaking in, time will tell. In summary a very useful addition to the workshop.
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